Tag: sub

Subwoofer Enclosure Buying Guide

Belva BBLE212 Dual 12" Loaded Enclosure


Buying a Subwoofer Enclosure

Find the Perfect Enclosure for Your Subwoofer

Building your perfect car audio setup requires more than just the components; you also are going to need the right mounting hardware to have your system meet its potential. Your subwoofer is no exception when it comes to a subwoofer enclosure. A subwoofer without an enclosure isn’t capable of functioning to it’s full potential. If you want to really make your subwoofer bump, this means finding the right enclosure not only to meet the requirements of your sub, but also the space limitations for your car. You can also build an enclosure yourself to meet your subwoofers requirements, however it is not recommended unless you are an experienced craftsman and have a complete understanding of the various specifications.



What Size Subwoofer Do You Have?

Your first step in purchasing a subwoofer box should be obvious, what size is your subwoofer? You can’t buy a box designed for an 8” subwoofer and use it with a 12” sub, it simply won’t fit. The cut out dimensions need to match your subwoofer exactly for the box to function properly. It is also imperative for you to know the mounting depth of your subwoofer, if you purchase a box that is too shallow for your woofer, you’re also going to be in trouble. You also need to know how many subs you plan on installing. If you’re only going to be putting one subwoofer in your car, you’ll need to get a single sub enclosure. However, if you plan on installing 2 subwoofers, dual sub boxes are also available (however they can take up a significant amount of space).



What are Your Subwoofers Airspace Requirements?

Once you have determined what size enclosure you need for your subwoofer, it’s time to get into some of the finer details to get your bass to really hit hard. Matching your subwoofer to the proper enclosure is no simple task as you need to know the precise Thiele/Small (T/S) Electromechanical Parameters as well as the air space requirements of your specific sub. The T/S parameters as well as the air space requirements of your subwoofer should be provided by the manufacturer.



What Kind of Box Do You Need?

There are 3 types of subwoofer enclosures: sealed boxes, ported boxes and bandpass boxes. Subwoofer enclosures are most commonly (but not exclusively) constructed from medium density fiberboard (MDF). Each box type has its own merits and features, but not every subwoofer is designed to work with any box type.

Sealed Enclosures are More Compact than Other Types of Enclosures

Sealed Boxes are airtight enclosures to house your subwoofer. A sealed box provides deep, precise bass and is ideal for any music that demands tight and accurate bass. Sealed enclosures are not overly boomy, provide outstanding power handling as well as incredibly deep bass extension. Sealed enclosures also typically more compact and can fit in more places in your car easier. As a general rule, sealed enclosures require more power than a ported box and use of an amplifier is usually recommended.


Ported enclosures (or vented enclosures) feature an additional port for air flow in and out of the box. The added air flow of ported boxesallows the box to play louder with less power required. Ported boxes are best used for rock, heavy metal or any other genre of bass heavy music.

Bandpass enclosures are more specialized enclosures which place the sub between a sealed and ported box. These enclosures are designed to provide the hardest hitting bass performance. They produce much more bass than their sealed and ported counterparts, however it is over a much more narrow frequency range. These enclosures are ideal for rap, R&B, hard rock, metal and other bass heavy music. Bandpass boxes are often the largest enclosure type.



What Else Do You Need to Know?

Among other considerations you need to make when purchasing a subwoofer enclosure is the amount of space you have in your car. Subwoofer enclosures can take up a large amount of space and depending on what kind of car you have, any type of enclosure may not work. Not all vehicles have the room of an SUV, van or even a hatchback to accommodate the larger sub enclosures and you’ll need to know how much open space you have (and are willing to sacrifice) to add an enclosure.

Install Your Enclosure Under the Seat to Save Space

Trucks are often the most difficult vehicle to install a sub enclosure in simply because there is very little free space in the cab. Enclosures in pickup trucks can generally only be installed behind the driver and passenger seats. These types of enclosures feature an angled design to fit snuggly up against the seatback. Another potential location for the installation of your subwoofer enclosure is under the seats in your car. These enclosures are perfect if you’re trying to keep your sound system inconspicuous as they will be hidden from view. The most common type of enclosure is the trunk mount enclosure. These ‘big box’ enclosures fit in the trunks of sedans and in the cargo area of hatchbacks, vans and SUVs. Trunk mount enclosures can vary quite a bit in size and take up a significant chunk of your storage space.

Many Vehicle Specific Enclosures Install in Out of the Way Places

Vehicle specific enclosures are also available for select vehicles. These enclosures are designed to fit precisely into specific vehicles and will often fit in out of the way places. These types of enclosures can be constructed out of MDF like most common enclosures as well as fiberglass. Fiberglass is an ideal material for vehicle specific enclosures because it can be molded to fit in virtually any space.

Preloaded enclosures are also available to purchase; these enclosures eliminate the guesswork of selecting a box to match your subwoofer as they come with the subwoofer built-in. A preloaded enclosure can also include an amplifier, making your installation process even simpler.

Once you have your enclosure installed in your vehicle and subwoofer mounted in it, you’re ready to enjoy your new sound. At Sonic Electronix, we have everything you need to get your bass up to par.

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Subwoofer Box Types

Sealed Enclosure

Subwoofer enclosures do more than just give you somewhere to mount your subs; they also play a huge role in the bass produced by your subwoofers. Choosing the right enclosure can be tricky, but we are here to help relieve some of that confusion and get your foot planted firmly through that car door. There are three main subwoofer enclosures types to consider: Sealed, Ported/Vented, and Bandpass enclosures. Each has advantages and disadvantages in efficiency, size, distortion, cost, and power handling. The different enclosure types produce a unique sound and choosing an enclosure should be based upon the music style you listen to. Here is the rundown on the various enclosure types:

Sealed Subwoofer Box
Sealed Sub Box

Sealed Enclosure:
The sealed subwoofer enclosure is characterized by excellent transient response(less boom, more punch), superb low frequency power handling, and a smaller box size. When a speaker is mounted in a closed box, the air in the box acts to some extent as a spring. However, sealed enclosure systems tend to suffer from higher cutoff points and lower sensitivity than the other low frequency systems. They are usually the subwoofer system of choice for audiophiles because of their excellent transient response. The box internal volume should be as close as possible to what is recommended by the manufacturer. If a box is smaller than what it is recommended, the sound will be tighter, but more amplifier power will be required to push it.
If the sub box is too big, then the sound will be filthy and distorted.
Overall it produces a crisp and clean sound for any type of music. If you did not understand what any of that meant, here is a basic run down:
– Less Boom, More Punch
– Top Choice for Audiophiles
– Smaller Box Size Required
– More Amplifier Power Required

Ported/Vented Enclosure:
A ported enclosure system consists of a driver mounted on one side of a box that has an open tunnel or port which allows the passage of air in and out of the box. The function of the port is to “tune” the enclosure so that the rear wave of the speaker enhances the front wave of the speaker. This typically results in a woofer system with a higher efficiency (it plays louder with less power). At low frequencies, the vent contributes substantially to the output of the system. The box design acts as a filter, cutting off lower frequencies.

Ported/Vented Sub Box
Vented Sub Box

The ported enclosure system is characterized by lower distortion and higher power handling in the system’s operating range, and lower cutoff frequency than a sealed enclosure system using the same driver.
Distortion rapidly increases below the cutoff frequency as the sub loses load. The transient response of a ported enclosure system is usually inferior to that of a sealed enclosure system using the same sub. Let’s rehash the main points of a ported/vented enclosure:
– Equal Boom, Equal Punch
– Strengthens Bass
– Amplifies Sound
– Bigger Box Size Required

Bandpass Enclosure:
Enclosures consist of a woofer between a sealed and ported box. Bandpass boxes will yield more bass than sealed and ported boxes (especially at lower frequencies), but over a narrower frequency range.
Since the box acts as a filter, mechanically blocking lower and upper frequencies, a crossover is not needed in most cases.  These enclosures are usually big and very unforgiving when precise volumes and port sizes are not followed.  Bandpass boxes also tend to mask distortion which could lead to damaged subs. Bandpass enclosures are extremely efficient in the band of frequencies that they are tuned to or “pass” (hence the term bandpass). Disadvantages of this design are a limited frequency range, huge enclosure size and limited power handling. We don’t recommend any more than 500 watts RMS power to a bandpass enclosure.
Let us take another look at the main points:
– Lower Bass Frequencies
– Should Be Tuned
– Low Power Handling
– Biggest Box Size Required

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How to Install Car Subwoofers

Required Tools:

    • Wire Cutters
    • Wire Stripper
    • Electrical Tape
    • Speaker Wire
    • Panel Remover

You may also need one or more of the following:  Screwdrivers (Flat, Phillips) and Screws, Right angle Phillips, Drill, Wrench, Pliers, Saw, Glue gun, Caulk, Wire ties, Soldering Iron, Knife, Flashlight

Subwoofers are vital to a car audio system because they reproduce low audio frequencies that give an overall depth to the sound of your music. Installing and wiring subwoofers requires numerous tools. You will need electrical tape, speaker wire, and a wire cutter and crimping tool. Depending on the extent of the install, you may also need a power drill, screwdrivers (Phillips and flat head), right angle phillips, wrench, panel remover, saw, pliers, glue gun, caulk, soldering iron, knife, wire ties and a flashlight.

First cut about 1′ in length of positive speaker wire and negative speaker wire. Depending on how you wire your sub, you may need more than one piece of each type of wiring. You need to strip 1/8″ to 1/4″ of insulation at the ends of the wire using your crimping tool. At this point you will run the wire through the subwoofer terminals. Turn the subwoofer on its face in order to access the wiring terminals. After you wire the voice coils, cut one additional piece each of positive and negative wire. Determine the amount of length you will need based on where you plan on mounting the amplifier. This wiring will connect to the first negative and positive terminals on the subwoofer and run through the box terminal to connect to the amplifier.

To mount the subwoofer, line up the subwoofer’s screw holes along the diameter of the enclosure’s hole. After you align the subwoofer to your liking, mark the screw holes with the drill. Remove the subwoofer and drill the holes into the enclosure. Now place the subwoofer back into the enclosure’s hole and use the drill to screw in the subwoofer. Note: before screwing in the subwoofer, you can add Poly-Fill to the inside of the enclosure using spray adhesive. This further enhances the sound since adding Poly-Fill it simulates a larger box.

Decide how to wire the subwoofer based on the subwoofer’s type and number of voice coils. Also consider the impedance and power ratings of the subwoofer and amplifier. To wire in parallel, simply connect the positive leads of both subs to the amp’s positive terminal and the negative leads to the amp’s negative terminal. Wiring in parallel will lower your impedance, and a lower impedance value will enhance your amp’s power capability. To wire in series, simply connect the positive leads of the subwoofers to the amp’s positive terminal, but then connect the negative terminal of one subwoofer to the positive terminal of the second sub. Then connect the latter sub’s negative terminal to the amp’s negative terminal.

If you do not want to bother with wiring and mounting a subwoofer, you can order preloaded enclosure packages. All you need to do is fasten the loaded enclosure and connect it to the amplifier using speaker wires. Powered subs are an even simpler option because they include both an amplifier and woofer inside an enclosure.

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How To Choose a Subwoofer Box

Make Sure You Get the Right Enclosure for Your Subwoofer!

In order to get the most out of your subwoofer, you need to pick the proper subwoofer enclosure. We carry a nice selection of professionally constructed sub boxes. There are different pluses and minuses to consider when choosing between a sealed, ported or bandpass box. You should base your decision on your subwoofer specifications and available vehicle space.

In comparison to ported boxes and bandpass enclosures, sealed enclosures are usually the smallest in size. Sealed boxes prevent air from escaping the box, making it harder for the sub to move in and out. This increases the transient response, meaning tighter bass and greater sound accuracy. Sealed enclosures also have excellent power handling, as it is harder for the sub to “bottom out” (excursion beyond peak excursion). However, since the airwaves cannot escape from the box, the sub is less efficient, meaning less sound reproduction. The firmly sealed design also doesn’t allow the speaker temperature to cool down as quickly as it does in other boxes or free air setups.

Ported boxes, also known as vented boxes, are enclosures that are designed with a port tuned to a specific frequency. In comparison to sealed and bandpass enclosures, ported boxes are the most efficient boxes. Their design produces more sound output than sealed enclosures, because the vent allows the back waves to reach your ears along with the front waves. Ports will generate deeper bass up to the tuned frequency, but power handling below the tuned frequency is poor, which makes the woofer susceptible to damage. Sealed boxes provide better transient response and speaker damping than ported boxes, because ported boxes fail to provide internal pressure against the sub.

A bandpass enclosure is a hybrid between a sealed and ported enclosure. With one sealed and one ported chamber, bandpass boxes give you the best of both worlds. They have off the charts power handling and excellent low frequency response. A bandpass box should be specifically designed for your subwoofer(s) to ensure optimal performance. Since the ports in bandpass boxes are not tuned to speaker requirements, most speakers will have a better all around sound in ported or sealed enclosures.

We also carry vehicle specific subwoofer enclosures. Stealthboxes are custom-made upon your order, specially designed for your vehicle. They are made to match your vehicle’s physical shape and interior design. Bassforms are custom-made fiberglass enclosures that are built to last. In comparison to other materials, fiberglass boxes weigh less and are smaller in volume. Bassforms enclosures are both the lightest and the strongest boxes on the market, backed by a lifetime guarantee. Bassforms boxes are also built according to your vehicle’s specifications to maximize your available space while keeping your vehicle’s factory look intact.

Besides investing in an enclosure, another small investment for better subwoofer performance is our polyester fiber fill. Adding poly-fil to your sub box slows down back waves inside of the box, making the subwoofer perform as though it were in a bigger enclosure. We recommend that you use approximately 1 pound of fill per cubic foot of box volume. In enclosures where the fiber fill may blow out of a port, a light multipurpose adhesive should be used to secure the fill to the wall linings.

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